We are indebted to a Clarry Small, a village resident who has provided us with the following, fascinating account of village history.
The ‘old’ village is built on either side of a long steep bank running to the south towards Spennithorne. If you study the positioning of the older houses, you will see they are built on natural terraces that follow the terraces at the East side of a deep wooded gill that runs parallel to the road.
In this pretty naturally wooded Gill is Harmby’s best kept secret – a magnificent waterfall with an approximate drop of 15ft. It leads to other small falls as Harmby Beck winds its way down to the River Ure at Spennithorne Beck End.
The township of Harmby is mentioned in the Domesday Book spelt Hernuebi, but a more correct name was thought to be Harnby. In later documents it was spelt Hernebie and is said to be so named because of a heronry (a place where Herons nest) which was located in The Gill.
Another legend handed down from generation to generation had another explanation for the name Harmby. It is said to be a shortened name used in medieval times, of Harmbye, with the explanation for this being that when the wary traveller journeyed from Richmond to Middleham, they had to pass through a dense forest that stretched from Richmond to Harmby. When they reached Harmby, they considered the worst of any danger was passed and the last two miles would be safe – hence Harm-bye.
The lane that turns South at the Wesleyan Chapel (built in 1855 for £103) is known as Middleham Lane and runs first as a metaled road and then as a green lane until it reaches a pasture adjoining the River Ure. In ancient times, before Middleham Bridge, there was a ferry here across to Middleham.
In the year of 1890, Harmby Township contained 1,007 acres. At this time the then Lord Bolton was Lord of the Manor (Manor House). Rateable Value at that time was £1209. Other main property owners were John Topham, Middleham, Mrs Hampton, Mr W Pearse, Hutton Hang. The gross estimated rental was £1342.
The Manor was held in the 14th Century by Andrew De Harcla who for his Distinguished Military Services was created Earl of Carlisle by Edward II and enriched with extensive grants of land. A few months later Harcla fell under the ‘suspicion of disloyalty’ and was arrested as a traitor. He was tried at Carlisle by the Chief Justiciary, Sir Jeffrey Scrope, and executed there on the 4th March 1323. Much doubt exists of his guilt. His land was forfeited and Harmby was bestowed on Henry Scrope, whose descendant, the 1890 Lord Bolton was Lord of the Manor. The present Lord Bolton no longer has interest in the village. Part of the old Manor House remains a dwelling to this day. It has a legend of a concealed treasure and a secret passage underground, linking it to the Pheasant Inn (originally named The Railway Tavern owing to its proximity to the Wensleydale Railway).
In the early days of the railway there was a small platform located near the level crossing into the main quarry named Harmby Halt. This quarry is now a Caravan Park, with an interesting building facing out onto the railway and the main A684 road. This is the remains of a large lime burner, still in use in the late 1920’s.
There is a public footpath leading off Harmby Bank, near the gate to Mickley House which leads on to Leyburn. It passes through a large pasture named Fairy Well Field, so named because of a spring that still exists and can be located just below the footpath half way across the field. It is a well-known old folklore that it had an iron dish with a cup chained to it for the thirsty traveller in medieval times. These cups were expected to be installed at small springs that were near villages.
In times gone by the village was known to sport two pubs, four shops, a Wesleyan Chapel, a Boot & Shoe Maker and a Cattle Dealer of some repute because of an extra-large bovine beast that travelled the country with him in a horse drawn cart for show purposes.
There was also a freeholder’s quarry, now filled in, which was adjacent to the east of The Gill near the water fall area, close to the A684. At that time it was common land, village residents could quarry stone for their own personal use. The last house to be built using this stone was Robins Garth, situated behind the Chapel.
Opposite the Chapel through a small arched gateway, stands a small 3 storey cottage. Now named Puzzle Cottage (previously Rose Cottage), it was the home of a Clockmaker (Jim Coates) and reputed to be one of the oldest houses in Harmby. Originally it was the home of the Falconer to the Royalty at Middleham Castle and claw marks still remain on the beams in the top story where the birds of prey were housed.
The cul-de-sac that runs up side of the beck marks the end of ‘old Harmby’ and is named Brook Terrace. It is reputed to have been a Tannery. Unfortunately, there is no written evidence that this was the case however some older residents have been assured by their grandfathers that hides were pegged out in Harmby Beck to clean. As can be seen, most of the houses in Brook Terrace are now what you would call ‘conversions’. The buildings adjacent to the beck were always referred to as the Tan Yard by the older villagers.
The second public house, no longer in existence and called The Bolton Arms, was located on the site of the white house approximately one third of the way down the bank on the West side.
As you will realise the village is steeped in history. We are inordinately proud of it and how far it has come.
As Written by Clarry Small – resident of Brook Terrace, May 2016